Fold-over collar



FOLD OVER COLLAR Filed Aug. 2, 1928 R. O. KENNEDY ET AL Z nuev/r n@\\\w\\um z M 2 v w i i .v M 2 Jan. 7, 1930.

Patented `lan. 7, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT oFF-LCE RICHARD OAKLEYKENNEDY AND LOUIS P. MADSEN, l0F TROY, NEW YORKASSG1\TORS TO CLUETT,PEABODY & C0., INC., OF TROY, NEW YORK, A'CORPORATION -'NE\V YORKFOLD-ovnis COLLAR Applicatio med August e, 1928. Y serial No. 296,983.

This invention relates to an improvement in a fold-over collar and moreparticularly in the construction and method of making the bands ofcollars which shall be thin and flexible when starched and ironed.V Oneobject of this invention is to reinforce the band so that it will resiststresses tending to wrinkle and deforrn the band from its erect positionand at the same time enable the band to be thinner, more flexiblelaterally, and lighter than the bands now in general use in this type ofcollar.

Another object of the invention is to provide a structure defining thebottom edge of the band which is simple and easy to make accurately andwhich will contribute to the effect of the reinforcement and protect aoneply area of the band from tearing, for example in laundering.

The band of a collar embodying` this invention differs fromfold-overcollars of popular use comprising a band and a top or fold-overportion, in which the band, which resists the vertical stresses appliedto the top fold of the collar, is made of a plurality of continuousplies of sufcient thickness to provide the necessary strength, in thatone of the plies of the band, preferably of two plies only, is out awayto form arched areas of lesser thickness, preferably of one ply only ateach side, an expedient which increases the flexibility and decreasesthe weight of the band when the edges of the cut-away area areappropriately edge-finished and related to the remainder of the garment.

The edges of the band blanks and the cutaway ply which define thecut-away areas may be bound edges, and the bound edges stitched orotherwise secured to the remainder of the band, particularly to a bottomedge structure of another ply of the band relied upon to form astiffening chord for the arched binding, to which it is anchored at eachend. The structures are suchas to avoid multiple thicknesses exceptwhere they are useful for reinforcement.

The invention will be explained as illustrated by a particular exampleshown in the drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged transverse section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1; andi Fig. 3 is an :enlarged elevation of a section of the band, one portionof the band being raised out of its normal position to show underlyingstructures.

As disclosed in the drawings, the collar .10 comprises a band 11 and atop 12, the band 11 having the usual front buttonholes 13 and rearbuttonhole 14. The band 11 comprisesV an inner ply 15 and an outer ply16 between the inturned upper edges 17 of which the upper edge of thetop 12 may besecured in any usual manner, as by stitching 18. The innerply 15 has edges delined by a single infold 19, Fig. 3, and is cut awayat each 4side of the rear buttonhole 14 to provide arcuate openings at8, the edges 9 of which are bound by a tape or band of fabric 20, inFigs. 2 and 3. The binding'20 may have an inturned edge at the exposedface of ply 15, and is secured to the ply 15 by stitches 2 1.

The cut-away ply 15 provides-in the openings 8 an exposure of the loweredge and inner fold of the ply 16. In a preferred form the blank for ply16 -is infolded once at 22, and the raw `edge of theinturn is reinforcedthroughout its length by a binding 23 stitched to it at 24, the boundinturn being stitched at 25 to the ply 16. The reinforced arcuate edge 9of the inner ply 15 is secured the band lighter; whereas the tapededgesl which define the arch offer a greater resistance to verticalstresses which' may be applied to the collar than would a collar bandmade up of two complete plies.

The tape 23 is secured by stitching 26 to.

the body of the ply 10 and is here shown as extending along the entirelower edge of the ply 16, thus preventing any stretching of the loweredge of the band. Moreover it has been found that the use of a tape tocover the raw edge of the ply has the further advantage that it is muchquicker and cheaper to apply the tape than to fold the raw edge under asin the old way of making and finishing cutout pieces in collar parts.

We claim:

1. Fold-over collar having a band and a top, the band comprising plies,one of said plies being cut away at arcuate areas widest at the loweredge of said ply for increased lightness and flexibility of the band,the ar-Y cuate edge of the ply at the cut-away portion being reinforcedby a binding attached to its material and to the other ply; the otherply having a continuous lower edge reinforced by a binding, and attachedto said rst--named ply and its arcuate binding, whereby to provide atension member across the said arcuate binding of a cut-away arearesisting spreading of the arcuate binding under downward stress.

2. Fold-over collar having a top and a substantially erect band of aplurality of plies of fabric, from which the top depends, said bandhaving areas of lesser thickness and greater flexibility, at which theedge of the multiple ply areas is defined by an attachedupwardly-curving textile fabric binding, and an attached textile fabricbinding extending across and attached to the ends of theupwardly-curving binding, whereby the collar band is characterized byincreased flexibility transversely of its surfaces at the thinner areas,and maintained or increased resistance to deformation against stressesin the direction of the extent of the plies.

Signed by us at Troy, New York, this 27 th day of July, 1928.

R. OAKLEY KENNEDY. LOUIS P. MADSEN.

